The first time that I saw this problem climbed was back in 2008. Eric Sanchez did the craziest way imaginable. That first open hand loose pinch was out of his reach from the ground so homie just dynoed to the right hand crimp. Pretty ridiculous. Odds are that at his height it was probably around V10ish but he logged it as a V9 on his 8a.
I remember looking at it and thinking good god. If I could climb this line some day that would be sick! Fast forward to 2011. End of January.
A few friends and I rolled out to Mortar. That day Eric did Stans into Going Blind which is an intense V11 that RARELY gets done. I focused in on Sunshine Eliminate. The sequence through the top out came rather easy buuut the top out itself is a different story. I thought I had the rig done. Beta refined. It was in the bag. Not.
The night before the send I was out way to late DD’in for some homies. I went to bed roughly around 5:30. Eric was to pick me up at 8am. I cant recall what came up at home but I ended up sleeping for only about an hour and a half. Not good to try and send near your limit. Good thing I hadnt been drinking or anything because I would have never gotten out of bed.
We got to Berkeley fairly early around 9am and warmed up slowly. I felt pretty good all things considered. I was expecting myself to get up to the top a time or two and then just sending it. Buuut. Nope. That wasn’t going to happen. For some reason I couldn’t do the top out sequence the same as I had been and I realized very quickly that there was no way I could piece this thing together from the ground.
Eric and I quickly started figuring out other beta options and that’s when the left hand thumb jug pinch was found. That is hand move #3. I also figured out that knee bars could be utilized to hold my fat ass up while getting the grips just right. I gave the problem a few SOLID red point burns but feel one or 2 moves from the top about 3 times. I was devastated. I had skipped out on class for nothing. Failure. I made Eric hit up the gas station for an extra Red Bull and a Snickers. Send fuel.
After consuming that crap and a good mental prep I said out loud, this is my last go. No matter what. If I fall, fuck it. It doesn’t matter.
I pulled on. The first hold felt the worst it had all day. I bared down and caught the right hand crimp. Perfect. That was a first for the day. The knee bar was next followed by the left hand pinch. Eric calmly said to me as I was placing the second knee bar, “C’mon dude, you got this shit.”
That kinda broke my concentrate but for the better. I said to myself. “Your damn right I got this shit.” I slapped out right to this good dish with a great thumb catch and focused in. I wanted it. The next few moves were some of the sketchiest yet solid I have ever climbed. They were all compression type slaps to decent holds but they are all facing the wrong ways. Not my strong suit. I was straight up falling out of every hold but I wanted it. With A LOT of grunting and rock humping I pulled through and got my right foot up in the good dish then stood up. It was over. This was the first thing harder then V7 that I had sent in roughly a year. And barely at that.
3 weeks later I did my first V10. Video and story to come VERY soon.