Valley season OVA!

I wish that the valley was like this right now. Unfortunately it’s as hot as Africa there and well that means climbing is done. For now. Come late August September it will be back on though so its time to train!

Yesterday, Rob Sharpe and I got in one last good route. The East Buttress of Middle Cathedral. What a great route. Varied climbing, great views, possibilities for long pitches if you have the rope for it and an epic descent. I would really like to go back in fall and do it again. I had planned on freeing the bolt ladder but it was to hot so I just A0 it and there is a variation to the last pitch that I missed and would like to do. So we will see. I have other plans for the valley in the fall so those may come first.

Here is my fall valley ticklist, in no real order,

Lunatic Fringe, 5.10c
Reed’s Direct, 5.9
Absolutely Free, 5.9
Outer Limits, 5.10c
Keep the Muscle, Lose the Fat, 5.13a
and maybe even a wall!

Midnight Lighting, V8
The Force, V9
Bachar-Cracker, V4
start working Kumba, V11
Pride, V9
Cocaine Corner, V5
and a few others that are slipping my mind.

Well, for now, its the gym or Toulumne for me, with stints of Castle Rock and Berkeley for the morning sesh’s. Also Mickey’s Beach. Sex Porposes, 5.12c and Dreams of White Porches, 5.13b sound like they would be a great time. Endless Bummer perhaps as well.

We’ll see whats up but I’m fiending for some hard rope climbing alot right now and I need some projects as much as I hate them they are good for the soul.

Love you all,



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