Today my good friend justin and i went to Castle Rock State Park as we usually do on Wednesdays. the intention was for Justin to go and work the Lost Keys Traverse. I have pictures from an older post here from his first work sesh.
He made pretty good work and remembered the opening sequence pretty quick and figured out the end so it all comes down to getting the far reach to a sloper to set up to grab the finish jug. I think he’ll get soon for sure.
I played around with an early sequence that plays bad slopers and a deadpoint to another sloper with a huge hueco thumbcatch. Pretty hard. It hurt my fingers pretty bad as I slipped off multiple times.
We then walked over to the parking lot boulder because we hadn’t been there for a month or so. I wanted to look at Coz Momma Roof as the Dr. Topo guide shows a sit start V9/10.
I tried first directly from the sit and it was hard. Really hard. I then flashed the stand which goes at hard V4 as I hadnt moved off the start edge yet. I tried it a few times, rested a bunch in between then got ready to give one last go.
I booted up, fixed the pad and sat down. Set up with a shallow left crimp and a full span to a right sloper. I launched off an edge that only guys 6’2″ can use and snaged the top of the edge perfect. My feet cut sending my ass backwards brushing the top of the pad without unwaiting my arms and I held. I matched smeared my right foor and jumped for a right hand sloper. I campused up left hand worked into a match, threw a right heel and snagged the jug. Done! Coz Momma Roof Sit was done. My first V9. In a day!
It may be hard V8 but I haven’t done enough V8’s to know. All I know is that the book says V9/10 and it surely wasn’t a V10. It was totally my style though and the single move off the sit is one of the hardest moves I’ve done on a problem that I have finished. I’m definitely really psyched on the send.